
Sometimes a tree is in the wrong place and sometimes it's dead, dying or unsafe. When removal is the right answer, and more often than not it isn't, there are a few ways to take a tree down. The site decides which.
Where there's open space below and room to lay the tree out, a controlled directional cut drops it exactly where planned. Fastest and most cost-effective, this is right for paddocks, large open gardens and forestry style sites. Almost never right in a tight urban garden.
For most domestic sites, a shed beneath, a greenhouse next door, a fence close by, the tree must come down piece by piece from the top, each section lowered with rigging rather than dropped. Slower and more skilled, and priced accordingly, but it's how the large majority of domestic removals actually need to happen. The alternative is damaging the property, which always costs more.
Where a tree is tight against a house and there's no safe drop zone at all, a crane lifts each section clear before it's cut free. It's the safest way to take down a big tree in a confined, high-value setting.
dead trees (especially brittle dieback ash), major structural defects, the wrong tree in the wrong place, storm damage beyond repair, or development work (subject to TPO/Conservation Area checks).
removal is irreversible. If a reduction, lift, thin or deadwood could solve the problem instead, that's the conversation to have at the free site visit.
Every removal comes with a replanting recommendation, a species suited to your soil, exposure and the space, so the next tree is the right one. You're not obliged to use me to plant it, but it’s something I like to encourage
For guidance purposes only,
(under 8m)
(over 8m)
(8–15m)
(8–15m)
(request for quotation)
(15m+)
(additional service)
These are typical prices for guidance only, each job will get a free quote with works to then be scheduled at a latter date should you the customer wish to proceed

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